A short write-up of Antony Beevor’s The Fall of Berlin 1945 (2002) appears on my “companion” blog Down and Outbound which is another interest of mine -- an irreverent look at related transportation topics. In the posting “European Transportation Observations: Part 2” there is a footnote entitled “Panzerfaust”, (a reference to cyclists who carried rocket-propelled grenades like bazookas) and I mentioned a couple aspects of the book that stuck with me in my recent trip to Europe.
I read the book in preparation of my visit to Berlin and it was a part of World War II history, I knew next to nothing about since Beevor’s primary focus is on the Red Army’s capture of Berlin. It’s was a brutal and horrific campaign and it can sicken one to read Beevor's grisly details.
The book also inspired me to visit Tempelhof Airport (shown above), which was has been a part of Berlin air travel history for over a century and is mentioned several times in the book. In the 1930s, Hitler pushed to make Tempelhof the crown jewel of European airports and a tribute to Nazi power. Well, the Soviets in their capture of the city on May 1, 1945, disabused that notion. According to the book, the advancing Soviet artillery purposely did not destroy the entire airport and in order to make the airfield operational, the Soviets forced two thousand German women ( Trümmerfrauen*) to clear the airfield of rubble. Within days after the fighting ended, signers of Germany’s unconditional surrender documents were flown into Tempelhof for the official ceremony on May 8, 1945
I brought this to the attention of our English-speaking guide, who gave us the initial impression that he was a funky, free entertaining spirit who looked like he came from a Peter Max poster. On the other hand, he did not know all the historical facts. “Please ask me questions, that I only know the answers for,” he replied half jokingly after I inquired if he would illuminate Tempelhof’s history in the final days of the war. But my interpretation of his answer was that he was really telling me in front of the other tourists to “shut my gob.”
So, as you can see reading ahead, I became one of “those people” that can potentially mess up a tour (at least for the guide). A lesson learned – it’s okay to read ahead, but just keep your smarts to yourself, book people.
Footnote Trümmerfrauen*
The airport operated until finally being shut down permanently in 2008. It was also the site of the Berlin Airlift in 1948-49 and even more recently has been used as a refugee center. Since it looks like something out of the movies and was used as a film location for The Bourne Supremacy and Bridge of Spies. For a more complete history and photographs check out this article which brought to my attention (unlike my tour guide) that the airport itself is intentionally shaped like an eagle.
Trümmerfrauen* is the German word for the women who removed rubble (Trümmer" means rubble.) after the Allied bombings of Germany. Out of necessity they cleaned up the debris from destroyed buildings in exchange for food ration cards.